After years defined by the “clean girl aesthetic” and barely-there beauty, the Spring 2026 runways have delivered a triumphant, unrepentant dose of maximalism. This season, makeup is not just an accessory—it is the centerpiece, embracing drama, texture, and vibrant colour. From dazzling washes of molten gold illuminating the lids and lashes at Ulla Johnson and Collina Strada, to the definitive return of high-octane red lips reminiscent of classic Spanish glamour at Carolina Herrera, subtlety has officially taken a backseat. While a flawless, healthy complexion remains the canvas, designers are pushing boundaries with bold graphic liners, unexpected face embellishments, and statement lashes, signaling a celebratory new era where self-expression is the ultimate beauty mandate. Get ready to stock your kit with everything that shimmers, smudges, and saturates.
The New Era of Gilded Eyes
This spring, the runways declared that gold is no longer reserved for jewellery; it is the definitive eyeshadow trend, ushering in a dazzling “Gilded Age” of eye makeup. Far from being a traditional holiday staple, this metallic hue was reimagined in ways that felt fresh, delicate, and entirely modern. At Prabal Gurung, the look was pure artistry, with delicate gold flecks meticulously placed on the upper lid, creating a shimmering effect that was subtle yet commanding. This gilded touch was expertly balanced with bare lashes and a pale pink lip, ensuring the focus remained squarely on the molten texture of the eyes.
The trend’s versatility was further showcased at Collina Strada, where the golden application took a monochromatic turn. Makeup artist Isamaya Ffrench swept shimmering gold shades not only across the lid but also onto the cheeks and even the lips, creating an ethereal, sun-kissed, and seamless metallic glow. Similarly, Ulla Johnson offered a luxurious take, employing a buttery gold eyeshadow mixed with a medium to create a bespoke gilded mascara.
This bold application of gilded liquid coated the lashes, turning them into glistening fringe and proving that a single, dazzling element is sometimes the most powerful statement of all. This season, gold serves as an unapologetic spotlight, enhancing the eyes with a radiance that captures the light with every turn and elevates the simplest makeup routine into a sophisticated runway moment.
The Return of the Red Statement Lip
If the eyes were gilded, the lips were utterly saturated, with a powerful return to the classic, unapologetic red lipstick. The statement lip is back in full force, moving beyond the muted nudes and soft glosses that have dominated recent seasons. This time, the focus is on depth, texture, and a true, confident crimson. At Carolina Herrera, the look was a celebration of timeless, strong Spanish glamour, where bold red lips were paired with sharp, graphic eyeliner and dewy skin. This classic pairing demonstrated the power of a perfectly executed, powerful lip, drawing inspiration from muses like Paloma Picasso and the designer herself.
However, the trend isn’t limited to a single finish. Fendi showcased a rich, satin red lipstick, solidifying its status as a high-fashion perennial. Meanwhile, the backstage teams experimented with texture to offer variation, proving that the shade’s impact can be customised.
The simplest way to elevate the look was seen by topping a true red pigment with a high-shine gloss, adding a three-dimensional, wet look that felt instantly modern. For those seeking a softer interpretation, applying lipstick with a finger for a natural, blurred wash of colour—or opting for deep, rich lip stains—offered a fresh burst of colour that was less severe but equally vibrant. The message is clear: whether matte, satin, or glossy, a beautiful red lip is the ultimate symbol of spring confidence, offering an instant touch of high-octane sophistication.
Smoke and Subversion: The Grunge Liner Revival
The Spring 2026 season saw the full-scale resurgence of a gritty, lived-in aesthetic, proving that the ‘90s-inspired grunge glam is now a mainstream staple. The “smoke show” trend focused on subverting classic eyeliner, embracing a deliberately smudged, slightly undone look that suggests an epic night that just ended. This aesthetic is a powerful departure from the harsh, perfect lines of graphic liner, offering a soft yet edgy feel that instantly lends an air of cool, effortless rebellion.
At Christian Cowan, the look was made springtime-friendly by skipping mascara altogether, allowing a soft black liner or shadow, rimmed subtly around the entire eye, to create a sultry, diffused focus without the heaviness of a full smoky eye. This technique provides definition while maintaining a light, ethereal quality suitable for warmer months.
The versatility of the grunge liner was further explored by makeup artists aiming for a more textured, graphic-meets-smoky effect. At Marques ‘ Almeida, a deliberate cross between a graphic shape and a smoky lid was created, featuring feathered ends that felt minimalist yet inherently edgy. Similarly, at the Khaite show, the inspiration was drawn directly from the morning after a glamorous affair. Makeup artists applied a dark eyeshadow stick to create that smudged, sleepy, and effortlessly cool effect around the eyes. This trend is a testament to the power of deliberate imperfection, trading flawless precision for an air of mysterious, undeniable rock-and-roll glamour.
The Flushed Complexion: Minimalist Skin with a Pop
While the season embraced maximalism in eyes and lips, the foundation of every look remained a meticulously prepared and minimalist complexion. Skinimalism is less of a fleeting trend and more of a perennial prerequisite, with the emphasis shifted entirely to skin health and an effortless, radiant glow. Backstage at Bach Mai, the consensus was that skin health must shine through the makeup. The approach at many shows involved extensive skincare prep—often including brightening face masks and nourishing balms—before any makeup was applied, resulting in a luminous, healthy canvas that looked effortlessly perfect.
The “makeup” on this clean canvas focused primarily on a vibrant, rosy flush. At Kallmeyer, the look centered on a clean, effortless complexion accentuated by a beautiful flushed cheek and a high-shine lip. Blush was strategically applied not only to add colour but also to sculpt, with placement often moving upwards towards the ear to provide subtle shaping and lift, as seen at Kate Barton. This subtle contouring effect gives the face a refreshed, youthful structure without the need for heavy bronzer.
A key takeaway was the strategic use of unexpected colour to achieve a truly vibrant effect. Makeup artists noted the power of purple or lilac blush shades to neutralize yellow tones in the skin, allowing the cheeks to appear naturally rosier and brighter than traditional pinks. This trend proves that a “no-makeup makeup” look for spring is not about bare skin, but about flawless preparation paired with a single, perfectly placed pop of youthful color that brings the complexion to life.
Beyond Black: Statement and Colorful Lashes
Lashes have officially returned to the forefront of beauty, shedding their role as a mere supporting player to become an expressive, standalone feature. This season saw a strong push toward statement and colourful applications, moving decidedly beyond traditional black mascara. At Collina Strada, the look was playful and innovative, featuring individual colourful lash clusters strategically placed to create distinct, flirty ‘wings’ that either contrasted boldly or perfectly complemented the rest of the model’s ensemble, turning the gaze into a major moment.
The trend for a lighter, more ethereal lash was also prominent. At Eckhaus Latta, models wore semi-transparent white lashes, creating an effect that was described as delicate and dreamlike. This playful nod to the “ghost lash” trend made the eyes feel otherworldly and soft, catching the light in a subtle way. This look is perfect for those who want a statement without heavy pigment.
Furthermore, the golden eye trend extended to the lashes themselves. At Ulla Johnson, a bespoke gilded mascara was created and applied, turning lashes into a shimmering, precious metal fringe. The overarching theme is that lashes are no longer meant to simply define; they are intended to decorate. Whether through vibrant colour, ethereal white, or luxurious gold, the Spring 2026 runway championed lashes as a canvas for bold, expressive artistry, encouraging an imaginative and daring approach to eye styling that ensures every flutter is a focal point.
