For the Spring/Summer 2026 season, the most potent conversation starter on the runway was not a print or a silhouette, but the simple, intentional act of exposure. The line between lingerie and ready-to-wear has been completely dissolved, paving the way for a fashion era defined by a complex, unapologetic sensuality. This is not merely a rehashing of the ‘no pants’ trend; it’s a sophisticated sartorial rebellion that weaponizes delicacy. Designers are using bias-cut silks, fine lace, and intricate corsetry as legitimate building blocks for the daytime wardrobe, moving the bustier from the bedroom to the boardroom and the embellished brief from the boudoir to the boulevard. The new philosophy? Garments previously considered private are now a statement of indomitable confidence and high-fashion complexity.
The New Undress Code: Underwear as the Top Layer
The most direct and declarative interpretation of the Spring 2026 trend is the elevation of core lingerie pieces to primary outerwear. Designers have stripped away the notion that a bra, bralette, or brief must be hidden, turning these staples into the central focus of a look. The contemporary bralette is no longer just cotton; it’s a meticulously crafted bandeau of sheer lace or embellished satin, often stiffened and sculpted to provide architectural shape.
The key to this execution lies in luxury embellishment. Simple pieces are transformed into statement jewelry via strategically placed crystals, rhinestones, and sequins. At AREA, the basic cotton bra was allowed to peek delicately from beneath a dramatic, jewel-encrusted mini-dress, adding a touch of fragile intimacy to the otherwise aggressive glamour. Elsewhere, designers like Calvin Klein took the concept to an almost deconstructive level, literally weaving the recognizable elastic waistbands of classic briefs into the fabric of sophisticated evening dresses. This technique elevates the mundane into the masterful, treating the intimate label as a high-fashion, upcycled motif and signaling that the foundation of an outfit now carries as much prestige as the finished garment.
Sheer Power: The Art of the Visible Layer
Central to the enduring success of the lingerie-as-wear trend is the pervasive use of sheer fabrics. Tulle, chiffon, macramé, and organza are employed not just as decorative overlays, but as veils that deliberately necessitate the visibility of the inner layer. This is dressing as controlled revelation, where the ‘coverage’ is only an illusion designed to highlight the beauty of the structure beneath.
This effect was powerfully realized in the dominance of sheer hosiery and lace leggings. Whether taking the form of punk-y, ripped lace tights or delicate, capri-length sheer trousers, these pieces served to extend the sensual theme below the waist while retaining a measure of sartorial propriety. Designers like Altuzarra showcased gowns where lace and chiffon mimicked the movement of feathers, revealing corseted or lacy body-suits underneath, creating a floating, ethereal effect. The message is about textural layering: a sheer duster coat or a chiffon skirt layered over a high-waisted, lace bodysuit creates depth and movement. By showcasing a glimpse of lace or a whisper of silk, the wearer maintains control over the narrative, making the viewer lean in to appreciate the delicate construction.
The Corset Revival: Romanticism Meets Structure
The corset, long an emblem of restrictive femininity, has been fully reclaimed as a symbol of romantic structure and empowered shaping for Spring 2026. Its function has shifted from shaping the body under layers to becoming a focal point of contemporary daywear.
Designers like Wiederhoeft showcased exquisitely crafted corsets in delicate colors such as pale blue silk taffeta, adorned with hand-embroidery and fine beading. These were styled not as undergarments, but as bodice-like tops paired with full, flowing skirts or structured trousers, instantly creating a look that balances rigid tailoring with whimsical romance. Furthermore, the corset has been utilized as a powerful layering tool over other garments, such as classic ribbed tank tops or crisp button-down shirts, serving to cinch the waist and redefine the silhouette of looser pieces. This modern usage honors the garment’s heritage while framing the body with an intentional, celebratory emphasis on the waistline, proving that powerful structure can be beautiful, elegant, and perfectly appropriate for the midday meeting.
The Complex Woman: Lingerie and the Power Suit
Perhaps the most sophisticated and nuanced application of the trend lies in the deliberate juxtaposition of racy lingerie with oversized, masculine tailoring. This is the uniform of the modern woman: complex, contradictory, and entirely indomitable.
The runway presented a powerful narrative of contrasting volumes and textures. Lacy bras, slinky silk camisoles, or delicate bodysuits were styled beneath cavernous, strong-shouldered trench coats, broad-cut blazers, and voluminous suiting. This styling, seen powerfully at houses such as The Attico, creates a moment of high drama upon the coat’s inevitable removal, but also a tension when worn buttoned up—the knowledge of the delicate layer beneath the rigid armor. The juxtaposition speaks volumes about control and confidence: the modern professional is sophisticated, powerful, and possesses a subtle, undeniable sensuality that is hinted at, but not fully exposed, by her outerwear. It is a calculated power move that defines the wearer as a figure capable of commanding attention in any setting, from the C-suite to the after-hours event.
From Micro-Mini to Micro-Skirt: The New Bottom Line
The trend of exposing the bottom half has evolved past the familiar micro-mini into silhouettes that blur the line with the literal brief. For Spring 2026, the hemline is hitting an all-time high, demanding a fresh approach to styling the leg.
Designers explored this provocation with everything from sequined, jewel-encrusted briefs styled as shorts (seen in the European collections that influence this mood) to the literal embrace of the tiny bottom piece. Colleen Allen leaned into a 1940s-inspired lingerie cut to create a “butt skirt” that was both retro and rebellious, giving only a playful hint of skin. This new bottom line often incorporates visible garter-belt detailing or sheer panels (Christian Cowan), adding an extra layer of structural sensuality to the leg line. To make this challenging trend wearable, stylists embraced the counterpoint of the over-layer: pairing the micro-bottoms with a long, sweeping trench coat, an oversized blazer, or a knee-high boot. The effect is less about shock and more about celebrating the body with a liberated, joyful attitude that declares fashion’s ultimate freedom from traditional modesty.
