The twin islands of Lošinj and Cres, nestled in Croatia’s Kvarner Gulf, have quietly emerged from the shadow of their Dalmatian rivals to become an essential destination for the discerning traveler. Lošinj, known for centuries as the ‘Island of Vitality’ due to its balmy, healing air, offers a sophisticated experience steeped in 19th-century Austro-Hungarian grandeur. Its northern sibling, Cres, remains largely untouched, a land of ancient olive groves, rugged karst landscapes, and serene Venetian-era harbours. With the Kvarner region set to take the prestigious title of European Region of Gastronomy in 2026, the culinary spotlight is firmly on these twin jewels of the northern Adriatic. It is here, among the scented pines and in the shadow of storied stone walls, that one can find an exquisite blend of natural wellness, historic charm, and a deeply authentic Croatian-Italian cuisine.
The Scented Path to Vitality
Lošinj’s reputation as a climatic spa is no mere marketing tagline; it dates back to a deliberate campaign by the 19th-century Habsburg rulers. Convinced of the island’s therapeutic qualities, they established it as a winter retreat for the Viennese and Hungarian elite, leading to the systematic planting of vast forests. These Aleppo pines, whose essential oils mix with the native Mediterranean herbs, create the air’s unique, health-giving quality. The island’s main town, Mali Lošinj, and the smaller, picturesque Veli Lošinj, with their grand villas and tree-shaded paths, still exude this bygone era of sophisticated wellness.
Nowhere is this focus on aromatherapy more evident than at the Lošinj Fragrant Garden (Miomirisni Otočki Vrt). A short distance from the main town, this sanctuary offers a curated experience of the island’s botanical wealth. Over 250 species of indigenous aromatic plants, including wild sage, rosemary, mint, and the golden immortelle, thrive here, their scents enveloping visitors who pause to gaze at the stunning seascape. It is a place for the soul to be soothed, where one can sample local homemade products, sip Istrian wine, and appreciate the island’s natural bounty—a perfect living expression of Lošinj’s identity as an ‘Island of Vitality.’
Beyond the gardens, over 250 kilometres of marked footpaths crisscross the island, connecting coves, villages, and ancient ruins. The gentle stroll around the celebrated Čikat bay, lulled by the combined fragrance of pine and sea, showcases this ethos perfectly. Even as late as autumn, the intense heat of high summer mellows into a pleasant warmth, and the fewer crowds on the beaches offer a palpable invitation to linger. Walking here, with the sun filtering through the tall pines and the quiet lapping of the Adriatic against the shore, is a restorative experience, a testament to the island’s enduring power to rejuvenate.
A Taste of the Kvarner Sea
The recent designation of the Kvarner region as the European Region of Gastronomy for 2026 places a well-deserved spotlight on the area’s rich culinary traditions. The islands’ cuisine is fundamentally defined by the incredible freshness of the Adriatic Sea, which dictates the daily menu. Chefs here, often born-and-bred islanders, emphasize the local fish and shellfish, which are prized by connoisseurs across the Adriatic for their exceptional quality. This commitment to local sourcing is exemplified by innovative cooks who are even turning the tide against invasive species; at Konoba Cigale, for instance, the executive chef has boldly featured the local blue crab on the menu.
In the bustling, brightly coloured port of Mali Lošinj, restaurant terraces overlook the lively harbour, providing the perfect setting for a gourmet exploration. Establishments like Bocca Vera showcase refined island cuisine, offering dishes such as perfectly grilled Kvarner langoustine or delicate tortellini richly flavoured with local ricotta, truffles, and a delectable škampi (shrimp) sauce. For a more traditional but equally exquisite experience, the colourful Venetian-style village of Veli Lošinj is home to Gostionica Marina, where an appetizer platter might feature marinated anchovies and carpaccio of sea bass, tuna, and octopus, preceding a simple yet spectacular main course of grilled dentex.
The island’s dining scene is a compelling blend of simple authenticity and romantic luxury. Lanterna Grill, nestled in the historic Čikat bay, offers a magical waterside setting, especially enchanting at twilight, where one can dine on fresh grilled turbot under the pine trees. Meanwhile, the smaller taverns that line the promenades in Mali Lošinj and Veli Lošinj serve up fresh daily catches and regional specialties alongside fine Istrian wines, ensuring every meal is a sensory event that connects the diner to the unique rhythm of the Kvarner coast.
Cres: The Island of Quiet Contrasts
Linked to its lively sister island by a small swing bridge at the ancient village of Osor, Cres is a world away, retaining a distinct atmosphere of untamed nature and quiet seclusion. It is a much larger island, yet its sparse population—sometimes said to be outnumbered by the island’s sheep—has been key to preserving its rugged beauty. It is a landscape of profound natural contrast, featuring vast stretches of holm oak and pine forests alongside expansive, rocky karst pastures dotted with ancient dry-stone walls. The pace here is noticeably slower and more rustic, perfect for travellers seeking a genuine escape into nature.
Cres Town, set on a deep natural bay, embodies a charming Venetian heritage, its narrow streets, or kalete, lined with pastel-coloured houses and adorned with Renaissance details. The main square, once a bustling hub for trade and public life, is now a pleasant spot for a morning coffee or to pick up local products, often including fine olive oil and honey. Though less developed for mass tourism than Lošinj, the town’s character is palpable and captivating. Further afield, tiny villages like Valun and Lubenice cling dramatically to the cliffs, offering glimpses into a past defined by fishing, sheep-herding, and stunning isolation. Lubenice, perched impossibly high above the sea, is a must-visit for its breathtaking views, especially at sunset.
The island’s commitment to conservation is evident in its northern region. The historic town of Beli is home to a rescue centre dedicated to the conservation of the magnificent Griffon Vulture, a species whose population has been successfully bolstered by concerted effort, earning the island a key place in European ornithology. The remote nature of Cres also means finding pristine coves and beaches, often composed of fine gravel, is an adventure in itself, whether discovered by hiking down a steep, herb-scented path or hiring a small boat to explore the hidden coastline—a true paradise for the adventurous nature-lover.
A Legacy of Stone and Sail
The architectural footprint of the Venetian Republic and the later Austro-Hungarian Empire remains indelibly stamped on the Kvarner islands, reflecting centuries of shifting regional power. In Lošinj’s Mali and Veli Lošinj, this history is manifest in the baroque sea captains’ houses lining the harbours and the grand belle époque villas of Čikat bay. These structures, now often converted into sleek modern hotels or luxury boutiques, represent a seamless and sophisticated blend of past opulence and contemporary luxury, maintaining the island’s status as a high-end, classic European destination.
Mali Lošinj’s rapid growth in the 19th century was fundamentally tied to its role as a significant, prosperous shipping hub. This maritime heritage is celebrated in the town’s atmosphere and local museums, which commemorate the powerful sea captains who sailed the world from this very Adriatic port. Even today, the brightly coloured port remains a dynamic scene of fishing boats, working vessels, and elegant yachts, all alongside café culture, ensuring the presence of the sea and the legacy of sail is felt in every corner of the town.
While a summer visit brings a lively buzz, festivals, and regattas, the unique appeal of Lošinj and Cres is perhaps best felt in early autumn. The intense heat of high summer mellows into a pleasant warmth, the heaviest tourist crowds thin out, and a palpable sense of tranquillity settles over the pine forests and harbours. This ‘sweet spot’ in the calendar allows travellers to truly appreciate the islands’ natural scent and serene pace, offering the ideal conditions for long walks, quiet meals by the sea, and soaking up the island’s unique blend of cultural heritage and natural vitality.
