Bvlgari’s latest high jewellery triumph, Polychroma, is nothing short of a kaleidoscopic revolution. The 250-piece collection ignites the imagination through a spellbinding interplay of shape, light, and colour, bringing together a vivid array of gemstones and daring design choices. Rooted in the legacy of Roman splendour but extending far beyond traditional boundaries, Polychroma explores the emotional power of colour and the architectural soul of jewellery as an expressive art form. Inspired by the ancient Greek words poly (many) and chroma (colour), Polychroma lives up to its name with unapologetic brilliance. From the cosmic domes of Rome to the mosaics of ancient Palestine, the collection draws on a rich cultural tapestry, illuminating the connection between colour, history, and identity in every jewel.
Redefining the language of high jewellery
Polychroma is more than a collection; it’s a design manifesto. Bvlgari uses adventurous silhouettes, unusual proportions, and unconventional gemstone pairings to challenge preconceived notions of what fine jewellery can look like in the 21st century. This is luxury with volume, voice, and vision.
At its core, Polychroma is also a technical feat. Sixty-five gemstone varieties appear in the collection, cut into over a dozen shapes, from classic brilliants to voluptuous cabochons and avant-garde sugar-loaves. These stones are not merely decorative but communicative — narrating stories of cultures, skies, mosaics, and mythologies. Each piece is crafted with the technical finesse of Roman goldsmithing, but with a global visual lexicon that includes Islamic mosaic art, Renaissance geometry, and even modern psychedelia.
According to Bvlgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin, “Polychroma redefines the boundaries of craftsmanship, gemology, and goldsmithing excellence. It’s a collection that constantly pushes the limits of what luxury can represent.” That ambition is evident in every detail, from the curvature of a diamond-studded clasp to the way a cabochon gemstone reflects sunlight.
Icons on the red carpet: cosmic vaults and emerald legends
Two of Polychroma’s most mesmerizing creations debuted where spectacle meets symbolism — the 2025 Met Gala. Actress Anne Hathaway appeared in the Cosmic Vault necklace, a celestial showstopper anchored by a 123.35-carat royal blue Sri Lankan sapphire. The sugar-loaf cut sapphire is framed by nearly 100 carats of diamonds and additional sapphires that evoke Rome’s baroque domes shimmering under a starlit sky.
Despite its staggering scale and gemstone weight, the necklace is surprisingly fluid in form — made up of 200 separate components that allow it to move with the wearer. Hathaway styled the piece with an understated white shirt, underscoring the modern wearability of even the most opulent high jewellery.
Also turning heads was Priyanka Chopra Jonas, who walked the red carpet in the Magnus Emerald necklace. At its centre: a 241.06-carat Colombian emerald, not only one of the most important stones ever mined from the region but also the largest emerald Bvlgari has ever set. The necklace’s long, sautoir silhouette references the laid-back glamour of the 1970s, infusing a sense of ease and irreverence into a piece of historic importance.
Jewels of wonder and cultural resonance
Polychroma’s commitment to storytelling through materials reaches a crescendo in the Celestial Mosaic necklace, a transcendent piece inspired by the 8th-century Tree of Life mosaic found in Palestine’s Hisham Palace. At the centre of this masterwork is a 131.21-carat red spinel — the fourth-largest of its kind in the world — surrounded by a symphony of tourmalines, emeralds, onyx, and multicoloured gemstones. The result is a wearable fresco that channels both Byzantine and Mughal artistic traditions.
The Polychromatic Bloom necklace also embraces a cross-cultural, almost fantastical aesthetic. Composed of three massive cabochon stones — a 106.36-carat rubellite, a 55.52-carat peridot, and a 55.11-carat tanzanite — the necklace evokes psychedelic florals and organic movement. The stones radiate a near-liquid luminosity, thanks to their curved polish and deeply saturated hues.
Each necklace is more than a technical marvel; it is an invitation to travel — across time, borders, and emotional registers. They do not just sit on the skin; they tell stories, command space, and ask their wearers to dream.
A diamond from the sun and the essence of rarity
Not all colour in the Polychroma collection comes from sapphires and spinels. One of the most striking pieces is the Essence of Yellow ring, which houses a jaw-dropping 45-carat fancy vivid yellow diamond. The diamond, cut into a regal Asscher emerald shape, is a one-in-eight-million phenomenon — the kind of gem that surfaces globally perhaps twice in a decade.
The setting mirrors Roman architecture, with the ring shank designed with arch-like motifs in step-cut diamonds. The ring glows with warmth, not just due to the stone’s saturation, but also because of the sun-drenched optimism it exudes. It’s a solar totem that represents the power of rare beauty and the majesty of elemental colour.
An ecosystem of opulence: beyond jewellery
While jewellery remains the cornerstone, Polychroma has grown into a fully realized universe. Bvlgari has translated the spirit of the collection into handbags, eyewear, and fragrances, allowing clients to immerse themselves in the brand’s colour-forward philosophy.
Out of the 250 pieces created for Polychroma, sixty are ‘millionaire products’, the most Bvlgari has ever assembled in a single collection. Five of these have been inducted into the brand’s Gallery of Wonders, the label reserved for its most historically and technically significant creations.
Creative Director Lucia Silvestri summarizes the ethos: “This collection is an enchanting journey into the vibrant world of colour, a celebration of the endless shades and depths that make it so alive… With each piece, we explore the limitless possibilities of colour, bringing together hues that speak to the heart.”
Colour as a universal language
Polychroma is ultimately a celebration — not just of gemstone virtuosity or Bvlgari’s Roman roots, but of colour as a deeply human language. It’s a collection that invites emotion before admiration, spontaneity before convention. It breaks the rules of proportion, weight, and expectation in favour of narrative, spirit, and beauty.
Bvlgari has once again reminded the world that true luxury isn’t silent — it sings in every shade.
