From wild rainforests and world-class whale watching to Indigenous fine dining and single-malt whisky, Vancouver Island’s eastern coastline offers a rich, slow-travel experience few destinations can match. When travelers think of Vancouver Island, they often picture the postcard charm of Victoria—the island’s capital in the south—or the ancient forests teeming with towering Douglas firs and red cedars. But venture farther north along the island’s east coast, and a more secluded, soulful side of British Columbia comes to life. Stretching from Nanaimo to Port Hardy, this quieter coastline offers a fusion of rugged wilderness, First Nations heritage, and culinary discoveries rooted in land and sea. “The east coast of Vancouver Island gives you a diverse mix of coastal experiences,” says Laura Howells of Tourism Vancouver Island. “It’s filled with ocean, mountain, river and forest scenery, with quaint and friendly communities speckled throughout.”
Start south: Nanaimo to the Comox Valley
Begin your journey in Nanaimo, where a sweet stop at Red’s Bakery for the iconic Nanaimo bar sets the tone. A short 30-minute drive north brings you to Parksville and Qualicum Beach, where 12 miles of soft, sandy shoreline offer a gentle welcome to the wild coast ahead. Whether you’re beachcombing in the mist or catching sunset over the Salish Sea, these small towns charm with understated beauty.
Continuing 40 minutes north, you’ll reach Courtenay in the Comox Valley—a hub for local art and food. Explore handmade pottery at The Potters Place Gallery or delve into Indigenous culture at the I-Hos Gallery, showcasing masks, carvings, and jewelry crafted by K’ómoks First Nation artists. Cafes and restaurants in Courtenay’s walkable downtown invite slow mornings and conversations over locally roasted coffee.
Campbell River: Salmon, whales, and wild forest
Drive another 30 minutes north and arrive in Campbell River, known as the “salmon capital of the world.” Depending on the season, all five Pacific salmon species crowd the region’s rivers and coastal waters. Anglers can buy a license online and join a local guide for a day of unforgettable freshwater or saltwater fishing.
If you’re more of an observer than angler, Campbell River also delivers world-class whale watching. “The region’s narrow channels and nutrient-rich waters create an incredible environment for marine life,” says Stephen Gabrysh of Campbell River Whale Watching. Expect to see humpbacks (June through October), orcas year-round, and maybe even sea lions lounging on rocky islets. Not a fan of ocean spray? Choose a covered boat over the open-air Zodiac for a more comfortable ride.
Back on land, Elk Falls Provincial Park offers a dramatic alternative. Hike a short mile through towering Douglas firs to reach a suspension bridge spanning a 260-foot canyon. From this dizzying perch, the 82-foot-tall Elk Falls crashes in a stunning cascade, framed by mossy forest and bird calls.
Into the North Island: Totem poles, art, and rainforest
From Campbell River, the landscape grows wilder with every mile north. After two hours, you’ll reach Port McNeill, a small harbor town and launch point for the ferry to Alert Bay on Cormorant Island. Home to the Kwakwaka’wakw Peoples, Alert Bay boasts the world’s tallest totem pole—rising 173 feet above the forest and carved in 1973 to honor local traditions.
Another hour north by car, the paved road ends in Port Hardy, the northernmost town on the island. Here, First Nations culture takes center stage at Copper Maker Gallery in nearby Fort Rupert, where you can see elaborately carved masks, canoes, and totems by local artists. The West Coast Community Craft Shop features the work of over 100 artisans, many of them Indigenous.
From Port Hardy, intrepid travelers can explore the Great Bear Rainforest—the largest remaining coastal temperate rainforest on Earth. Home to grizzlies, black bears, and the rare white-furred spirit bear, this pristine wilderness is also alive with smaller wonders. “It’s not just the bears and whales that leave an impression,” says Fraser Murray, founder of Nimmo Bay Wilderness Resort. “It’s the moss, the lichens, the waterfalls, the silence.” Access the rainforest by floatplane, private boat, or seasonal BC Ferry to Bella Coola.
Where to stay: From forest retreats to Indigenous-owned hotels
In Campbell River, the newly opened Naturally Pacific Resort offers views of both mountain and sea, an indoor pool with retractable walls, and access to the adjacent 18-hole golf course. The on-site garden supplies much of the produce for its modern steakhouse, Carve Kitchen + Meatery.
In Port Hardy, the Indigenous-owned Kwa’lilas Hotel immerses guests in Gwa’sala-“Nakwaxda’xw culture, with rooms adorned in Aboriginal art and a grand 18-foot copper installation in the lobby. Its in-house restaurant, Ha’me’, serves a remarkable menu of Indigenous fine dining—from spice-rubbed venison carpaccio to blackberry-topped sablefish salad.
For a remote wilderness experience, Nimmo Bay Wilderness Resort—accessible only by floatplane—offers luxury cabins, waterfall-adjacent hot tubs, and personalized adventures from kayaking to sea urchin diving. Its floating sauna and locally sourced cuisine (think foraged herbs and wild-caught salmon) make it one of the most exclusive, unforgettable places to stay in Canada.
Where to eat: From oysters to single malt
Vancouver Island’s east coast is a paradise for seafood lovers. About 20 minutes south of Courtenay, Fanny Bay Oysters offers shellfish straight from the ocean. Buy a shucking knife, grab a picnic table, and enjoy oysters as fresh as they come—briny, sweet, and kissed by the sea breeze. Don’t miss the housemaid sockeye salmon candy sticks, perfect for snacking on the road.
South of Campbell River, Shelter Point Distillery crafts award-winning single malt whisky using barley grown on-site. Its tasting room, built from local timber with sweeping ocean views, is a must-visit for whisky enthusiasts. Book a tasting flight or a full tour for a deeper dive into the distilling process.
At the Carve Kitchen + Meatery, dishes are grounded in the land. The resort’s on-site apiary provides honey for dressings and cocktails, while its garden yields herbs and vegetables. The menu highlights local seafood and Canadian beef in a serene, plant-filled setting.
How to get there
Most visitors arrive via BC Ferries from Vancouver (Tsawwassen) to Nanaimo’s Duke Point terminal—a scenic two-hour crossing past the Gulf Islands. A faster, passenger-only option is the Hullo Ferry, which runs from downtown Vancouver to downtown Nanaimo in just 75 minutes.
From there, rent a car and head north along Highway 19 (Island Highway) for speed, or the more scenic Highway 19A (Oceanside Route) for beauty. Whichever you choose, the road ahead is filled with discovery—of whales, wilderness, whisky, and the quiet magic of Vancouver Island’s untamed east.
