Exmouth, a vibrant seaside town nestled at the mouth of the wide River Exe in South Devon, offers a seamless and supremely restful antidote to the stresses of modern life. Easily accessible via the scenic Avocet Line from Exeter, this compact town is the ideal destination for a car-free break, trading stressful motorway driving for the gentle, ever-changing seascapes of the Jurassic Coast. The town is highly walkable, with its two-mile stretch of soft tawny sand, flower-filled gardens, and a buzzing marina all within easy reach of the railway station. Combining a rich history—as part of the UNESCO World Heritage Jurassic Coast—with a vibrant local culture, Exmouth provides an opportunity to truly decompress, offering a feast for seafood lovers, charming pubs, and endless opportunities for quiet contemplation beside the water. It is a place for slow living and simple pleasures, accessible via public transport and best explored on foot.
The Scenic Route to Serenity
The journey to Exmouth itself is the first step in the decompression process. The town is served by the highly scenic Avocet Line, a branch line that carries passengers from Exeter along the edge of the Exe estuary. From the train window, the view is a constantly shifting panorama of water and wildlife, where one can spot swans, gulls, oystercatchers, and scampering red-legged turnstones along the mudflats. This highly accessible rail link eliminates the need for a car, making the entire trip a peaceful experience from start to finish.
Once in Exmouth, the town’s compact layout ensures that all attractions are within easy reach on foot or via convenient local transport. The seafront, with its grand promenade, is only a ten-minute stroll from the station, passing through quaint, flower-filled squares and gardens. Local buses, such as the open-top 95 to Sandy Bay and the 57 to Courtlands Cross, provide swift and easy access to points of interest just outside the town centre, such as the unique National Trust property A la Ronde, ensuring that independence of movement is not sacrificed for a car-free holiday. This blend of historic rail travel and excellent local bus links makes Exmouth a textbook example of a sustainable, stress-free UK seaside escape.
Beaches, History, and Dinosaurs
Exmouth’s two-mile expanse of soft, tawny sand is the undeniable heart of the town, offering a welcoming spot for relaxation and water activities. The water temperature can be perfect for a dip, though visitors should remain mindful of the strong currents and keep close to the shore. The beach acts as a natural foreground to the historic seafront architecture, which includes the neogothic tower of Holy Trinity church and the playful, more recent addition of the seafront’s big wheel.
Stepping just a few steps inland from the seafront leads to another layer of local history and quirky attractions. Exmouth sits at the western gateway to the Jurassic Coast, a UNESCO World Heritage Site famed for its fossil-rich red sandstone cliffs. This geological importance is celebrated in the town’s playful Dinosaur Safari, a public art trail unveiled in 2016 featuring seventeen life-sized models, including a baby T rex and a long-necked brachiosaurus, adding a layer of family-friendly fun to the town’s ancient heritage.
For those interested in the town’s more recent past, the volunteer-run Exmouth Museum—housed in former stables and a cottage—offers a packed, atmospheric trove of local artifacts, from Edwardian capes to clay pipes and bramble scythes. Meanwhile, tranquil green spaces abound, such as Manor Gardens, where one can find the lovely Bumble and Bee café, or the Maer nature reserve, a sandy, grassy area perfect for sitting in the low branches of a holm oak and listening to the local warblers and chiffchaffs.
A Feast for the Seafood Lover
Exmouth’s prime position at the confluence of the River Exe and the sea makes it a veritable paradise for seafood aficionados. The local fishing tradition is immediately evident near the marina, where establishments like Fish on the Quay offer daily fresh catches. Visitors can stop here to chew on freshly shelled whelks by the water’s edge, often cooked right outside the shop, providing an authentic taste of the local maritime bounty.
The town’s dining scene celebrates this fresh produce with a range of options, from simple, excellent seaside cafes to more adventurous, unique venues. Land and Sea is a popular choice for fresh fish, with dishes like grilled mackerel served alongside pickled samphire. For a truly unforgettable experience, the River Exe Café is a floating restaurant moored in the middle of the estuary, reachable only by a bespoke hourly ferry from the marina. Here, surrounded by gently rocking waves and with cormorants standing guard on nearby wrecked boats, diners can enjoy perfectly cooked sea bream and buttery new potatoes. Reservations are competitive for this seasonal gem, which is only open from April to the end of September, but the reward is a uniquely atmospheric meal.
Even the most convenient spots embrace the local food culture. The hotel restaurants along the seafront, such as the Premier Inn’s own dining space, offer terraces with views of the sunset over the water, serving inexpensive pub-style grub while surrounded by tubs of lavender and French marigolds. For those willing to explore the side streets, local resident tips suggest sampling “hidden gem” La Mar, a bistro above the Beach pub, or the tiny backstreet Loluli’s Fire and Fish, a takeaway that cooks its fish over coals.
Exploring the Wider Estuary
While the town itself invites slow, simple exploration, the surrounding Exe estuary offers numerous opportunities for gentle day trips by foot, boat, and bus. The Exe Estuary Trail is a popular route for walkers and cyclists, a signed path running along the water with tunnels of butterfly-magnet buddleia and a pervasive maritime smell of stranded seaweed. Along this route, one can discover charming stop-offs like the tea garden at Lower Halsdon Farm, where warm scones are served with the famed clotted cream from Langage Farm, offering a classic taste of Devon tranquillity.
Further afield, the estuary’s ferries provide an accessible means to explore the opposite bank. The seasonal boat across to Starcross allows for a scenic circuit past the brackeny deer park at Powderham Castle, climbing through groves of sweet chestnuts and descending past marshes fragrant with water mint. From the ferry itself, passengers can enjoy distant, picturesque views of Exmouth and its landmark buildings. The entire experience of cruising the estuary provides a sense of quiet discovery, reinforced by the plaintive cries of seabirds on the sandbanks and the distant hoot of trains hurtling past the waterside railway.
For the final hours of a car-free break, pubs and balconies with waterfront views, such as The Grove, offer the perfect setting for a valedictory half of malty Otter Ale or a crisp local beer. Looking out across the sunlit water as the local poet’s words about seabirds and sunsets echo in the mind, any trace of lingering tension seems to simply slip away. Exmouth is an easy escape that succeeds in its simplicity, providing a restful place to decompress and reminding one that the finest holidays are often those that require nothing more than a train ticket and a willingness to sit back, relax, and appreciate the view.
